Just FIY - w/ these new handpumps, the spare dessicant does nt come included. Instead, we do offer you guys an upgraded gauge here (as opposed to the older one). It looks like the SHARP TIGER one, however, it is not made in Japan. It can be filled w/ glycerine however and has a rubber plug. Likewise, there is no in-line filter, but you guys can purchase it separately.
The feet are also improved - they are individually spring loaded and the rubber vulcanization around the feet do look done a bit better this time.
The shaft is also a silver colour this time, not the textured finish like we had previously.
Featuring our all new in-house branded 4500 PSI / 300 BAR handpump, at pre-lockdown price!
This product, we have to say, is excellent in that is provides alot of value for money, does not feature cheap coatings and comes out of the box w/ a slew of features that other pumps pricing in higher, do not feature. We are indeed quite excited to bring you this product. Please read on beneath;
---------
Opening this box, you'll receive this pump disassembled - the mainshaft assembled, the T-handle, gauge and hose are all separate.
As you assemble this product, you'll need the included multitool and admittably, this tool is no substitute for a proper (shifting) spanner and we do not necessarily recommend using this tool if you have access to proper tools. Please remember that all of the hex shaped nuts / fasteners are manufactured from brass and as such, are particularly vulnerable to cam-outing / stripping, if you use a spanner size too large. Please be patient in manipulating these fasteners, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN at any time, as this will bugger up the hexagonal shape and circle the fastener out.
As with all pneumatic applications - if you need to overtighten something or use thread / PTFE tape in conjunction w/ the correct O-ring, then it means that either your fault-finding / diagnosis of the problem is not correct and/or you are compensating otherwise which, while it may temporarily solve the issue, may create other issues, such as cross-threading on brass threads due to excessive PTFE tape or that same tape may constrict a transfer port.
---------
The handle itself hasreplaceable foam covers around them, which, unlike hard rubber, will not cause sweaty palms to mould to them, but, the foam instead will mould to your grasp, which is more ergonomical. However, due to this, the foam will evetually expire, especially also due to the corrosive nature of sweat, so we ship each pump out w/ an extra set of foam grips which can simply be slipped on.
Inside of the tube shape of the handles, you'll notice that there are dessicant tube inserts, retained by circlips - no plastic threading which can easily cross-thread or get grinded out. You'll notice that these tubes have a cheaper plastic housing, w/ slim pads at the inhale points that will blacken through after a few months as they inhale- and catch up, atmospheric impurities. These can very easily be swopped out w/ cotton buds etc.
As for the balls you see inside the plastic tubing - this is what the manufacturer refers to as "molecular sieve" and is intended to absorb moisture / humidity out of the air as the pump inhales. We would recommend covering the sides of the handles up if your pump is not in use, so as to avoid this molecular sieve absorbing moisture when not in use and thus, shortening its lifespan. With each pump, we also include a spare set of these tubes for replacement. Just be sure to use a proper circlip plier when taking the circlips out.
This T-handle itself installs tool-free by means of the integrated M9.7x40 galvinized screws. These are hollowed out, since they serve as the "throat" of the pump's inhale cycle. It is outside threaded, so it installs onto the mainshaft tool-free, instead of needing an allen key to install two machine screws as typical HPA pumps usually are configured. This is nice, as it allows you to disassemble your pump tool-free, with the exception of your guage, for easy storage and for commuting with.
---------
The mainshaft is partially magnetic, has a hammered texture w/ fine black denting on an otherwise grey metal backdrop. This outer shaft is machine-hammered carbon steel which increases its molecular density. It is likewise found on electrical enclosures, safes and security doors. As an interesting side-note, it isn't really magnetic, and we found this interesting explanation on the internet for it.
The interior shaft however, is manufactured from SAE 305 grade stainless steel which boasts heat-transfer properties, more than physical hardness, compared to its series 400 counterpart, which in turn, features for example, in old cutlery w/ the SHEFIELD, ENGLAND markings (SAE 420) and in alot of modern knives and multitools.
At the base of the shaft, is a brass 31mm (1 7/32) hex fastenter, which, if you were to move this mainshaft upward, would see the buffer tube O-ring preventing this brass from knocking the similarly sized one beneath it with each downward stroke of the pump shaft.
As you may realize by now - this pump is designed in terms of material composition, to allow heat to dissapate as fast as possible and as a catalyst for this, we recommend using the supplied silicone oil (2x little bottles are included) along the stainless steel seecond stage shaft (apply it and then rub it in with your hands, but please make sure that they are clean first, as moisture will take dirt or any residue on your hands, absorb it and eventually result in grime building up around the buffer O-ring
The upper one can only be unthreaded once the inhale non-return valve at the top is loosened out and removed. Therein should be a rubber ball - PLEASE DO NOT LOOSE IT.
Losing this ball will mean that backpressure will build up as you pump, causing your pump handle, when pulled up all the way, not to stay in place, but instead, to get sucked back down. Make sure to keep that ball lubricated and the hole it is inside, properly cleaned. There might be brass filings and such inside these small crevices, as the Chinese have to hurry when making these pumps and thus, do tend to overlook these small issues. We would otherwise love to strip and rebuild each pump individually for you guys, but unfortunately due to time constraints, we cannot.
----------
At the base of the pump, you'll find an angular M10x1 threaded blind hole, which is where the gauge threads into. Please note the hex drive underneath the guage - it corresponds to one of the hex spanner drives on the multitool with which the guage can be affixed with. Please do not use thread tape - there is a tube seal at the base of the hole, which will create an airtight seal. Try to thread the guage on so that, when you stand behind the pump, the guage' markings is legible upright to you. Please don't overtorque, as this will create deep seating marks on the seal and shorten its lifespan.
The guage itself is not liquid filled and while it is completely metal, it does not feature the same longevity as a liquid filled guage, which is one of the first upgrades to this pump we advise. That guage can be seen by clicking here.
There is a brass female Q/C threaded into the base of the pump, which makes attaching and detaching the hose a breeze. We would recommend instead, to take it off, replace it w/ a male threaded, male Q/C. Before threading this onto your pump however, use a jacket which you slip over the threading. It has a cap which can then cover the male q/c frontal end to lend some ingress protection, to prevent moisture from entering this side. This part should preferably be aluminium or stainless steel, as some moisture, which the molecular sieve does not collect and trap, will go through it. Brass on the other hand, does corrode and eventually forms green crusting, due to its bronze alloy.
On the hose itself, we recommend using a 1/8” BSP female threaded, female q/c. The hose itself is steel wire coil shielded, to prevent most types of sharp edges and hard surfaces from directly harming the hose, however, please ensure not to overflex this hose or store the hose in a coiled position, as this can readily cause kinks on the pipe. Normally this wouldn't be a problem, but since you're working here with pressures capable of exploding w/ enough power to remove most of your hand from your wrist, you should please take the utmost caution when using high pressure equipment like this.
The pedals on this pump is foldable and has vulcanized rubber coated around them for better surface grip. However, do note that this vulcanization is vulnerable to tiny pebbles and stones. If you intend on using this pump outside (which is a good idea for keeping your pump ventilated), just be sure to put something underneath the legs to prevent the rubber from getting tarnished. Underneath the base, there is a hard rubber matt, to prevent slippage and keep the pump steadily upright.
INCLUDED IN THIS DEAL, YOU WILL RECEIVE:
•2x Replacement foam grips for the T-handle.
•2x Molecular sieve prepacked inside plastic casings, ready for use
•2x 20ml bottled silicone grease
•1x 3mm Allen key
•1x ø5.75mm rubber ball (to prevent the air from escaping once it compresses down into the chambers)
•1x 0.40 x 7-3.8 x 8mm x 5 compression spring (for the non-return valve)
•3x 2.25 x 4.95 x 1.6mm O-rings. These fit around the brass non-return valve, the pencil tip shaped part that is pushed into the transfer port by the aforementioned spring. (Don't be shy with the silicone oil on this O-ring)
•1x 13.2 x 19.8 x 3.45mm O-ring. This should be for the first stage piston.
•1x 19.45 x 25.50 x 3.15mm O-ring. This should be for the second stage piston.
•1x 19.20 x 22.10 x 1.45mm O-ring. Thin O-ring which is for the outermost tube, which creates the seal between the hammer carbon steel sleeve and the brass hex fastener. Please just seat this properly and reattach the sleeve cautiously.
•2x 3 x 6.40 x 1.75mm O-ring. This is for the third stage piston, right at the base of the rod and slips around the platform pushed up by a spring. You can usually disassemble the end part of the rod by threading off the tip and removing the different parts. The O-ring seats onto the groove the easiest this way. This O-ring usually fits just above the metal spacer.
•3x PTFE tube seals, 3.45 x 8.85 x 2.60 mm. These are replacement seals for the blind holes which the guage as well as the hose threads into. This negates the need for thread tape.
1x Aluminium tool w/ low budget knurling. It has a tooled end implying that it is used to dismantle something, although we haven't as yet taken apart this specific pump yet.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Overall, with the exception of the guage (which nevertheless works fine), we feel this pump, especially for our coastal airgunners packing PCP, is a good option. Ir can collapse and the fill whip comes off, all tool-free for easy commuting to the air rifle club etc. We hope you guys will enjoy this pump. Don't hesitate to contact us should you guys have any further queries.
Just FIY - w/ these new handpumps, the spare dessicant does nt come included. Instead, we do offer you guys an upgraded gauge here (as opposed to the older one). It looks like the SHARP TIGER one, however, it is not made in Japan. It can be filled w/ glycerine however and has a rubber plug. Likewise, there is no in-line filter, but you guys can purchase it separately.
The feet are also improved - they are individually spring loaded and the rubber vulcanization around the feet do look done a bit better this time.
The shaft is also a silver colour this time, not the textured finish like we had previously.
Featuring our all new in-house branded 4500 PSI / 300 BAR handpump, at pre-lockdown price!
This product, we have to say, is excellent in that is provides alot of value for money, does not feature cheap coatings and comes out of the box w/ a slew of features that other pumps pricing in higher, do not feature. We are indeed quite excited to bring you this product. Please read on beneath;
---------
Opening this box, you'll receive this pump disassembled - the mainshaft assembled, the T-handle, gauge and hose are all separate.
As you assemble this product, you'll need the included multitool and admittably, this tool is no substitute for a proper (shifting) spanner and we do not necessarily recommend using this tool if you have access to proper tools. Please remember that all of the hex shaped nuts / fasteners are manufactured from brass and as such, are particularly vulnerable to cam-outing / stripping, if you use a spanner size too large. Please be patient in manipulating these fasteners, DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN at any time, as this will bugger up the hexagonal shape and circle the fastener out.
As with all pneumatic applications - if you need to overtighten something or use thread / PTFE tape in conjunction w/ the correct O-ring, then it means that either your fault-finding / diagnosis of the problem is not correct and/or you are compensating otherwise which, while it may temporarily solve the issue, may create other issues, such as cross-threading on brass threads due to excessive PTFE tape or that same tape may constrict a transfer port.
---------
The handle itself hasreplaceable foam covers around them, which, unlike hard rubber, will not cause sweaty palms to mould to them, but, the foam instead will mould to your grasp, which is more ergonomical. However, due to this, the foam will evetually expire, especially also due to the corrosive nature of sweat, so we ship each pump out w/ an extra set of foam grips which can simply be slipped on.
Inside of the tube shape of the handles, you'll notice that there are dessicant tube inserts, retained by circlips - no plastic threading which can easily cross-thread or get grinded out. You'll notice that these tubes have a cheaper plastic housing, w/ slim pads at the inhale points that will blacken through after a few months as they inhale- and catch up, atmospheric impurities. These can very easily be swopped out w/ cotton buds etc.
As for the balls you see inside the plastic tubing - this is what the manufacturer refers to as "molecular sieve" and is intended to absorb moisture / humidity out of the air as the pump inhales. We would recommend covering the sides of the handles up if your pump is not in use, so as to avoid this molecular sieve absorbing moisture when not in use and thus, shortening its lifespan. With each pump, we also include a spare set of these tubes for replacement. Just be sure to use a proper circlip plier when taking the circlips out.
This T-handle itself installs tool-free by means of the integrated M9.7x40 galvinized screws. These are hollowed out, since they serve as the "throat" of the pump's inhale cycle. It is outside threaded, so it installs onto the mainshaft tool-free, instead of needing an allen key to install two machine screws as typical HPA pumps usually are configured. This is nice, as it allows you to disassemble your pump tool-free, with the exception of your guage, for easy storage and for commuting with.
---------
The mainshaft is partially magnetic, has a hammered texture w/ fine black denting on an otherwise grey metal backdrop. This outer shaft is machine-hammered carbon steel which increases its molecular density. It is likewise found on electrical enclosures, safes and security doors. As an interesting side-note, it isn't really magnetic, and we found this interesting explanation on the internet for it.
The interior shaft however, is manufactured from SAE 305 grade stainless steel which boasts heat-transfer properties, more than physical hardness, compared to its series 400 counterpart, which in turn, features for example, in old cutlery w/ the SHEFIELD, ENGLAND markings (SAE 420) and in alot of modern knives and multitools.
At the base of the shaft, is a brass 31mm (1 7/32) hex fastenter, which, if you were to move this mainshaft upward, would see the buffer tube O-ring preventing this brass from knocking the similarly sized one beneath it with each downward stroke of the pump shaft.
As you may realize by now - this pump is designed in terms of material composition, to allow heat to dissapate as fast as possible and as a catalyst for this, we recommend using the supplied silicone oil (2x little bottles are included) along the stainless steel seecond stage shaft (apply it and then rub it in with your hands, but please make sure that they are clean first, as moisture will take dirt or any residue on your hands, absorb it and eventually result in grime building up around the buffer O-ring
The upper one can only be unthreaded once the inhale non-return valve at the top is loosened out and removed. Therein should be a rubber ball - PLEASE DO NOT LOOSE IT.
Losing this ball will mean that backpressure will build up as you pump, causing your pump handle, when pulled up all the way, not to stay in place, but instead, to get sucked back down. Make sure to keep that ball lubricated and the hole it is inside, properly cleaned. There might be brass filings and such inside these small crevices, as the Chinese have to hurry when making these pumps and thus, do tend to overlook these small issues. We would otherwise love to strip and rebuild each pump individually for you guys, but unfortunately due to time constraints, we cannot.
----------
At the base of the pump, you'll find an angular M10x1 threaded blind hole, which is where the gauge threads into. Please note the hex drive underneath the guage - it corresponds to one of the hex spanner drives on the multitool with which the guage can be affixed with. Please do not use thread tape - there is a tube seal at the base of the hole, which will create an airtight seal. Try to thread the guage on so that, when you stand behind the pump, the guage' markings is legible upright to you. Please don't overtorque, as this will create deep seating marks on the seal and shorten its lifespan.
The guage itself is not liquid filled and while it is completely metal, it does not feature the same longevity as a liquid filled guage, which is one of the first upgrades to this pump we advise. That guage can be seen by clicking here.
There is a brass female Q/C threaded into the base of the pump, which makes attaching and detaching the hose a breeze. We would recommend instead, to take it off, replace it w/ a male threaded, male Q/C. Before threading this onto your pump however, use a jacket which you slip over the threading. It has a cap which can then cover the male q/c frontal end to lend some ingress protection, to prevent moisture from entering this side. This part should preferably be aluminium or stainless steel, as some moisture, which the molecular sieve does not collect and trap, will go through it. Brass on the other hand, does corrode and eventually forms green crusting, due to its bronze alloy.
On the hose itself, we recommend using a 1/8” BSP female threaded, female q/c. The hose itself is steel wire coil shielded, to prevent most types of sharp edges and hard surfaces from directly harming the hose, however, please ensure not to overflex this hose or store the hose in a coiled position, as this can readily cause kinks on the pipe. Normally this wouldn't be a problem, but since you're working here with pressures capable of exploding w/ enough power to remove most of your hand from your wrist, you should please take the utmost caution when using high pressure equipment like this.
The pedals on this pump is foldable and has vulcanized rubber coated around them for better surface grip. However, do note that this vulcanization is vulnerable to tiny pebbles and stones. If you intend on using this pump outside (which is a good idea for keeping your pump ventilated), just be sure to put something underneath the legs to prevent the rubber from getting tarnished. Underneath the base, there is a hard rubber matt, to prevent slippage and keep the pump steadily upright.
INCLUDED IN THIS DEAL, YOU WILL RECEIVE:
•2x Replacement foam grips for the T-handle.
•2x Molecular sieve prepacked inside plastic casings, ready for use
•2x 20ml bottled silicone grease
•1x 3mm Allen key
•1x ø5.75mm rubber ball (to prevent the air from escaping once it compresses down into the chambers)
•1x 0.40 x 7-3.8 x 8mm x 5 compression spring (for the non-return valve)
•3x 2.25 x 4.95 x 1.6mm O-rings. These fit around the brass non-return valve, the pencil tip shaped part that is pushed into the transfer port by the aforementioned spring. (Don't be shy with the silicone oil on this O-ring)
•1x 13.2 x 19.8 x 3.45mm O-ring. This should be for the first stage piston.
•1x 19.45 x 25.50 x 3.15mm O-ring. This should be for the second stage piston.
•1x 19.20 x 22.10 x 1.45mm O-ring. Thin O-ring which is for the outermost tube, which creates the seal between the hammer carbon steel sleeve and the brass hex fastener. Please just seat this properly and reattach the sleeve cautiously.
•2x 3 x 6.40 x 1.75mm O-ring. This is for the third stage piston, right at the base of the rod and slips around the platform pushed up by a spring. You can usually disassemble the end part of the rod by threading off the tip and removing the different parts. The O-ring seats onto the groove the easiest this way. This O-ring usually fits just above the metal spacer.
•3x PTFE tube seals, 3.45 x 8.85 x 2.60 mm. These are replacement seals for the blind holes which the guage as well as the hose threads into. This negates the need for thread tape.
1x Aluminium tool w/ low budget knurling. It has a tooled end implying that it is used to dismantle something, although we haven't as yet taken apart this specific pump yet.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Overall, with the exception of the guage (which nevertheless works fine), we feel this pump, especially for our coastal airgunners packing PCP, is a good option. Ir can collapse and the fill whip comes off, all tool-free for easy commuting to the air rifle club etc. We hope you guys will enjoy this pump. Don't hesitate to contact us should you guys have any further queries.
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