NB: This set is supplied w/ a TORX locking screws, not socket-drive. The appropriate torx wrench comes included.
Really nice / excellent quality mount ring set w/ a beefy cross-section and a set of peep-holes for one's iron sights, should that be required.
The mount ring set comes pre-packaged in a transparent small hardshell carry case, w/ retainers that keep all the included components fixed in place, namely the upper / mount ring caps, the M3 allen wrench and the spare socket drive screws. Each mount ring of course, has a stopping-block that corresponds to the Picatinny interface, to prohibit recoil from moving the mount rings rearward.
The upper caps come untightened from the manufacturer and the corresponding lock screws are positioned appropriate - tighten them down into the exact same holes that you take them out of.
The maximum torque specification is prinnted onb the mount rings as well, in inch-per-pound, although, to accurately / precisely tighten the mount rings down, you will need something like a WHEELER TORQUE WRENCH to get it to 25 in.lbs. If you don't have one, you can usually just tighten everything down, similar to the nuts on a car wheel (bit-by-bit, in cross pattern) until an uneasy amount of felt-torque force is needed to tighten the mount rings down and onto the rail interface.
NB: This set is supplied w/ a TORX locking screws, not socket-drive. The appropriate torx wrench comes included.
Really nice / excellent quality mount ring set w/ a beefy cross-section and a set of peep-holes for one's iron sights, should that be required.
The mount ring set comes pre-packaged in a transparent small hardshell carry case, w/ retainers that keep all the included components fixed in place, namely the upper / mount ring caps, the M3 allen wrench and the spare socket drive screws. Each mount ring of course, has a stopping-block that corresponds to the Picatinny interface, to prohibit recoil from moving the mount rings rearward.
The upper caps come untightened from the manufacturer and the corresponding lock screws are positioned appropriate - tighten them down into the exact same holes that you take them out of.
The maximum torque specification is prinnted onb the mount rings as well, in inch-per-pound, although, to accurately / precisely tighten the mount rings down, you will need something like a WHEELER TORQUE WRENCH to get it to 25 in.lbs. If you don't have one, you can usually just tighten everything down, similar to the nuts on a car wheel (bit-by-bit, in cross pattern) until an uneasy amount of felt-torque force is needed to tighten the mount rings down and onto the rail interface.
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